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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.